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Caitlin Lewis, Community Outreach Manager for the Humane Society of Greater Dayton, dispels common myths about litter-box training for cats. In addition, she shows what and what not to do to help get your cat using the litter box as quickly as possible.
Hi, I'm Caitlin Lewis, Community Outreach Manager for the Humane Society of Greater Dayton on behalf of IAMS. Today we're going to learn how to train—or retrain—your cat to use the litter box. Contrary to popular belief, mother cats do not teach their kittens to use the litter box. Kittens begin to dig in and use dirt and dry, loose material at just a few weeks old without ever having observed their mothers doing so. This natural instinct is used in training kittens to use the litter box. Until your cat is reliably house trained, she should not have free run of your home. When you leave the house for any length of time, your cat should be confined to a single room, preferably one with nonporous floors, such as a kitchen, bathroom, utility room, basement or garage. Provide your cat with a bowl of water and a warm place to sleep at one end of the room, and a freshly clean litter box at the other end.
Until the house soiling has been cured, your cat should have a regular feeding schedule so she will develop a corresponding litter box schedule. In order to reward your cat for using her litter box, you must be there at the time she uses it. Most cats, especially kittens, will need to go shortly after waking, after eating, and after exercise. To help predict when your cat will go, feed her at regular times. If the input is on a regular schedule, the output will follow likewise. Call her to the litter box from a variety of places around your house, especially areas where she has soiled. When your cat gets to the box, scratch the litter to get her interested. Similarly, throughout the day, whenever your cat has been asleep for over two hours, wake her up and call her to the litter box. Encourage your cat to hop into the litter box and praise her when she does so. Even if she does not go, she's learning that the litter box is a great, clean place to be. If your cat does use it, then praise her in a gentle voice. When she is finished, gently stroke her, give her a treat, and let her know how pleased you are with her behavior. If mistakes occur, pick up the cat and set her down in the box. Do not discipline just before placing the cat in the box. The cat will associate any reprimand with being placed in the litter box, and will assume the litter box is the wrong place to go. Punishing a cat after the fact teaches her to be afraid of you. Never rub your cat's nose in a mess, or bring her over to it for a reprimand. She will have no idea why she's being reprimanded. But she may be inclined to eliminate in hidden spots, such as behind the sofa, to avoid another reprimand. Basically, punishment doesn't work with cats. Prevention and praise for getting it right are the keys to training. Clean any accidents immediately with half and half solution of white vinegar and water. This will help to eliminate the odor, and hopefully prevent kitty from returning to that spot. Consider covering the area with a plastic sheet; this will make it unpleasant for your kitty and discourage her from going there again. When your cat is still learning to use the box, leave a tiny bit of urine or feces behind in the box. The scent will remind her what the box is for. As soon as she is using the box reliably—and this could be as quickly as a day or two—remove all liquid and solid waste regularly. Scoop out solid material once or twice a day, and stir the litter to keep the surface dry. If your cat is having trouble using or finding the litter box, move it to an area where she can start seeing it all the time. When she stops playing and start sniffing or scratching at the floor, gently place her in the litter box. If your cat or kitten suddenly stops using the litter box for no obvious reasons, then take your cat to the veterinarian as soon as possible. Once your cat gets into the hang of finding the litter box and using it, they should have this skill for life. Now, let's recap. Provide your cat with a clean litter box that's easy to access. Get her interested in the litter box by scratching the litter. Reward your cat for using her litter box immediately after she uses it. And remember, prevention and praise are the keys to training. Punishment does not work with cats. I'm Caitlin Lewis on behalf of IAMS.
Nutrients such as protein, fat, vitamins, and minerals are important players in the skin and coat health of dogs and cats. To understand their role, it is necessary to first understand skin and hair.
The purpose of skin and hair is to block things (such as water or heat) from leaving, or things (such as viruses and bacteria) from entering the body.
The hair coat is composed almost entirely of protein. If an animal's diet doesn't contain adequate protein quantity and quality, hair may fall out, or become dry, weak, and brittle.
Skin is made up of squamous cells, which are flat cells tightly packed together. These cells have tough membranes that are composed of proteins and fats. Without proper amounts of these nutrients, cell membranes weaken, allowing water to escape and bacteria and viruses to enter more easily.
Proteins are found in both animal-based and plant-based ingredients. Animal-based proteins contain all the essential amino acids cats need, whereas plant-based proteins may contain only some essential amino acids. Cats need animal-based proteins to achieve optimal health.
Fats also can be found in both animal-based and plant-based ingredients, and they are incorporated into skin cells as fatty acids. There are two essential fatty acids for skin and coat health. Linoleic acid maintains skin and coat condition in dogs and cats. Without enough linoleic acid cats may experience dull, dry coat, hair loss, greasy skin and increased susceptibility to skin inflammation. Cats also require arachidonic acid for normal skin and coat health.
Both of these essential fatty acids are omega-6 fatty acids and are found in animal tissues such as chicken fat. Linoleic acid is also found in some vegetable oils, such as corn and soybean oils. Most commercial cat diets contain more than adequate amounts of omega-6 fatty acids.
Because these fatty acids can be converted to compounds that increase susceptibility to skin inflammation, it is important to balance the amount of omega-6 fatty acids in the diet with omega-3 fatty acids, which do not reduce susceptibility to inflammation.
Omega-3 fatty acids are found in oils from fish and some plants (canola and flax).
IAMS™ research has found that combining fat sources in the diet at a ratio of five to 10 omega-6 fatty acids to one omega-3 fatty acid results in excellent skin and coat health.
Vitamins and minerals are essential for the development of healthy skin and hair coat. The best way to provide these nutrients is through a complete and balanced diet containing appropriate amounts of essential vitamins and minerals rather than through supplements.
Vitamin or Mineral | Important for Skin and Coat Health |
Vitamin A | Necessary for growth and repair of skin |
Vitamin E | Protects skin cells from oxidant damage |
Biotin | Aids in the utilization of protein |
Riboflavin (B2) | Necessary for fat and protein metabolism |
Zinc | Necessary for fat and protein metabolism |
Copper | Involved in tissue, pigment, and protein synthesis |
Diet is often believed to be a factor when changes in skin and coat condition are noticed. The most common causes of these changes, however, are season and life stage.
As cold weather approaches, most dogs and cats grow a thick coat to help keep heat in and cold air out. As the weather begins to warm up, they shed the thick, heavy coat.
Most kittens are born with soft, fuzzy hair, but as they age, a coarser coat grows. Pregnant or lactating cats also may experience a change in coat condition or hair loss.
