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Kitten Training: How to Litter-Box Train Your Cat
Kitten Training: How to Litter-Box Train Your Cat

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Kitten Training: How to Litter-Box Train Your Cat

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Caitlin Lewis, Community Outreach Manager for the Humane Society of Greater Dayton, dispels common myths about litter-box training for cats. In addition, she shows what and what not to do to help get your cat using the litter box as quickly as possible. 

 

Hi, I'm Caitlin Lewis, Community Outreach Manager for the Humane Society of Greater Dayton on behalf of IAMS. Today we're going to learn how to train—or retrain—your cat to use the litter box. Contrary to popular belief, mother cats do not teach their kittens to use the litter box. Kittens begin to dig in and use dirt and dry, loose material at just a few weeks old without ever having observed their mothers doing so. This natural instinct is used in training kittens to use the litter box. Until your cat is reliably house trained, she should not have free run of your home. When you leave the house for any length of time, your cat should be confined to a single room, preferably one with nonporous floors, such as a kitchen, bathroom, utility room, basement or garage. Provide your cat with a bowl of water and a warm place to sleep at one end of the room, and a freshly clean litter box at the other end.

 

Until the house soiling has been cured, your cat should have a regular feeding schedule so she will develop a corresponding litter box schedule. In order to reward your cat for using her litter box, you must be there at the time she uses it. Most cats, especially kittens, will need to go shortly after waking, after eating, and after exercise. To help predict when your cat will go, feed her at regular times. If the input is on a regular schedule, the output will follow likewise. Call her to the litter box from a variety of places around your house, especially areas where she has soiled. When your cat gets to the box, scratch the litter to get her interested. Similarly, throughout the day, whenever your cat has been asleep for over two hours, wake her up and call her to the litter box. Encourage your cat to hop into the litter box and praise her when she does so. Even if she does not go, she's learning that the litter box is a great, clean place to be. If your cat does use it, then praise her in a gentle voice. When she is finished, gently stroke her, give her a treat, and let her know how pleased you are with her behavior. If mistakes occur, pick up the cat and set her down in the box. Do not discipline just before placing the cat in the box. The cat will associate any reprimand with being placed in the litter box, and will assume the litter box is the wrong place to go. Punishing a cat after the fact teaches her to be afraid of you. Never rub your cat's nose in a mess, or bring her over to it for a reprimand. She will have no idea why she's being reprimanded. But she may be inclined to eliminate in hidden spots, such as behind the sofa, to avoid another reprimand. Basically, punishment doesn't work with cats. Prevention and praise for getting it right are the keys to training. Clean any accidents immediately with half and half solution of white vinegar and water. This will help to eliminate the odor, and hopefully prevent kitty from returning to that spot. Consider covering the area with a plastic sheet; this will make it unpleasant for your kitty and discourage her from going there again. When your cat is still learning to use the box, leave a tiny bit of urine or feces behind in the box. The scent will remind her what the box is for. As soon as she is using the box reliably—and this could be as quickly as a day or two—remove all liquid and solid waste regularly. Scoop out solid material once or twice a day, and stir the litter to keep the surface dry. If your cat is having trouble using or finding the litter box, move it to an area where she can start seeing it all the time. When she stops playing and start sniffing or scratching at the floor, gently place her in the litter box. If your cat or kitten suddenly stops using the litter box for no obvious reasons, then take your cat to the veterinarian as soon as possible. Once your cat gets into the hang of finding the litter box and using it, they should have this skill for life. Now, let's recap. Provide your cat with a clean litter box that's easy to access. Get her interested in the litter box by scratching the litter. Reward your cat for using her litter box immediately after she uses it. And remember, prevention and praise are the keys to training. Punishment does not work with cats. I'm Caitlin Lewis on behalf of IAMS. 

 

  • Tips for Feeding Your Adult Cat
    Tips for Feeding Your Adult Cat
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    Tips for Feeding Your Adult Cat

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    At about 12 months, your cat no longer requires the high levels of minerals, protein, and energy needed while he was a quickly growing kitten. So switch him to a high-quality food, such as IAMS™ Proactive Health™  Healthy Adult - Chicken, which is specifically balanced for the nutritional needs of adult cats. When choosing food, follow these steps.

     

    • Read the nutritional claims on food packages. Check the label to make sure the food is appropriate for the stage of your cat's life (kitten, adult, or senior). Also, look for a statement saying that the food meets the requirements of the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). If your cat's food doesn't have the AAFCO’s nutritional claim on its label, there is no guarantee that your cat will get a complete and balanced diet.
    • Choose premium food. Premium cat foods, which generally use higher-quality, more easily digestible ingredients, are more nutrient-dense than the less expensive brands. So, your cat will get the calories he needs by eating less food. As a result, the difference in actual cost of feeding him premium food instead of generic may be only a couple of cents a day.
    • Consult your veterinarian. Because your cat's nutritional needs change as he grows older and certain medical conditions require a special diet, always talk with your vet about cat feeding specifics, including what–and how much–to feed your cat.

     

    Once you've selected a food, establish healthy feeding habits.

     

    • Always measure the food you feed your cat. Start with the portion recommended on the package, even though the serving size may not be ideal to keep your cat healthy. If he doesn't eat all of the food or starts to gain too much weight, cut back the portions; if he begins to look thin, increase the amount until he's maintaining a healthy weight.
    • Create a cat feeding schedule. Nutritionally, one meal a day is OK for adult cats. If your cat seems hungry more often, try multiple smaller meals at established times. Remember, more mealtimes shouldn't mean more food. Split up the recommended serving size to create several meals.
    • Consider free-feeding for fit and trim pets. Leaving dry food available all day so your cat can nibble whenever he likes will work if he's at a healthy weight. If he's overweight or overeats, or you can't gauge how much he's eating because other pets share his food, it's best not to leave food out.
    • Ban table scraps and limit treats. Not only are they high in fat and calories, but they also can interfere with the correct—and complete—nutrition your cat is getting from his food.
    • Introduce new food gradually. Whenever you want to begin your cat on a new food, mix it in with the old. Start with a small amount of new food and increase the percentage over several days. Cats are more likely to accept change if it happens slowly, and their digestive systems are less likely to be upset.
    • Keep fresh water in a clean bowl available at all times. Cats need water to help regulate their body temperature, digest their food, and eliminate waste, among other things. Providing plenty of fresh water is especially important if your cat eats only dry food or is prone to urinary tract blockages.

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