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Caitlin Lewis, Community Outreach Manager for the Humane Society of Greater Dayton, dispels common myths about litter-box training for cats. In addition, she shows what and what not to do to help get your cat using the litter box as quickly as possible.
Hi, I'm Caitlin Lewis, Community Outreach Manager for the Humane Society of Greater Dayton on behalf of IAMS. Today we're going to learn how to train—or retrain—your cat to use the litter box. Contrary to popular belief, mother cats do not teach their kittens to use the litter box. Kittens begin to dig in and use dirt and dry, loose material at just a few weeks old without ever having observed their mothers doing so. This natural instinct is used in training kittens to use the litter box. Until your cat is reliably house trained, she should not have free run of your home. When you leave the house for any length of time, your cat should be confined to a single room, preferably one with nonporous floors, such as a kitchen, bathroom, utility room, basement or garage. Provide your cat with a bowl of water and a warm place to sleep at one end of the room, and a freshly clean litter box at the other end.
Until the house soiling has been cured, your cat should have a regular feeding schedule so she will develop a corresponding litter box schedule. In order to reward your cat for using her litter box, you must be there at the time she uses it. Most cats, especially kittens, will need to go shortly after waking, after eating, and after exercise. To help predict when your cat will go, feed her at regular times. If the input is on a regular schedule, the output will follow likewise. Call her to the litter box from a variety of places around your house, especially areas where she has soiled. When your cat gets to the box, scratch the litter to get her interested. Similarly, throughout the day, whenever your cat has been asleep for over two hours, wake her up and call her to the litter box. Encourage your cat to hop into the litter box and praise her when she does so. Even if she does not go, she's learning that the litter box is a great, clean place to be. If your cat does use it, then praise her in a gentle voice. When she is finished, gently stroke her, give her a treat, and let her know how pleased you are with her behavior. If mistakes occur, pick up the cat and set her down in the box. Do not discipline just before placing the cat in the box. The cat will associate any reprimand with being placed in the litter box, and will assume the litter box is the wrong place to go. Punishing a cat after the fact teaches her to be afraid of you. Never rub your cat's nose in a mess, or bring her over to it for a reprimand. She will have no idea why she's being reprimanded. But she may be inclined to eliminate in hidden spots, such as behind the sofa, to avoid another reprimand. Basically, punishment doesn't work with cats. Prevention and praise for getting it right are the keys to training. Clean any accidents immediately with half and half solution of white vinegar and water. This will help to eliminate the odor, and hopefully prevent kitty from returning to that spot. Consider covering the area with a plastic sheet; this will make it unpleasant for your kitty and discourage her from going there again. When your cat is still learning to use the box, leave a tiny bit of urine or feces behind in the box. The scent will remind her what the box is for. As soon as she is using the box reliably—and this could be as quickly as a day or two—remove all liquid and solid waste regularly. Scoop out solid material once or twice a day, and stir the litter to keep the surface dry. If your cat is having trouble using or finding the litter box, move it to an area where she can start seeing it all the time. When she stops playing and start sniffing or scratching at the floor, gently place her in the litter box. If your cat or kitten suddenly stops using the litter box for no obvious reasons, then take your cat to the veterinarian as soon as possible. Once your cat gets into the hang of finding the litter box and using it, they should have this skill for life. Now, let's recap. Provide your cat with a clean litter box that's easy to access. Get her interested in the litter box by scratching the litter. Reward your cat for using her litter box immediately after she uses it. And remember, prevention and praise are the keys to training. Punishment does not work with cats. I'm Caitlin Lewis on behalf of IAMS.
Your cat is one of a kind, so it stands to reason that you want to choose a cat food that accounts for their unique tastes, age, breed and health concerns. But with thousands of pet foods available, how do you pick the one that’s right for your cat?
First, it’s important to understand your cat’s nutritional needs. Then, you’ll need to think about your cat’s life stage, lifestyle and any health issues, and do a bit of research on cat food types, ingredients and cost. That may sound complicated, but we’ll make it easy for you — just keep reading.
Good nutrition is as important to your cat as it is to you — but their nutritional needs are quite different! Unlike humans, a cat needs a high-fat diet with less fiber. And even if you prefer a vegetarian diet, keep in mind that cats are carnivores. They need nutrients from animal protein and fat for optimal health, and they benefit from fiber for a healthy digestive tract and carbohydrates for energy.
Kittens, adult cats, nursing mothers and mature or senior cats are all examples of life stages, and each has different nutritional requirements. All cat foods should state which life stage they are recommended for — as an example, IAMS™ Proactive Health™ Mother and Kitten as well as IAMS™ Proactive Health™ Healthy Adult include the intended life stage right on the package.
Nutritional needs also vary depending on your cat’s lifestyle. A cat whose primary activity is guarding the couch doesn’t need as much energy as one who enjoys roaming outside.
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Because cats need the nutrients found in animal sources, it’s best to pick a food in which a primary ingredient (one of the first ones listed) is an animal-based protein source such as chicken, lamb, fish, egg or one of their by-products. These ingredients contain all the essential amino acids your cat needs, including taurine, which isn’t found in a plant-based protein source. Foods that include a combination of carbohydrates in your cat’s diet, such as corn meal or barley and grain sorghum, ensure efficient absorption of nutrients and help maintain energy levels. And beet pulp is an excellent fiber source that promotes a healthy digestive tract.
For a soft, thick coat and healthy skin, your pet needs fatty acids like those found in vitamin-rich fish oils and quality fat sources such as chicken.
Cat food labels provide limited information on the nutritional value of your pet’s food because labeling regulations do not allow manufacturers to describe the quality of ingredients on the package. A reputable pet food manufacturer can explain how they evaluate and ensure the quality of their products.
When choosing cat food, the saying “You get what you pay for” definitely applies. A low price may indicate cheap ingredients or ingredients that change as manufacturer costs fluctuate. So while price is an important factor, it shouldn’t be the only one you consider.
Plus, many lower-priced products recommend higher daily portions to provide the same amount of nutrition found in a high-quality diet. To get a better idea of cost, it is the cost per feeding, not the total cost, that counts.
To figure out the cost per feeding for a cat food, divide the total cost by the number of days the product lasts. When compared closely, high-quality pet foods tend to come out on top, from both a nutritional and a cost standpoint.
